Introduction
Vitamin C, one of the most essential nutrients for human health, is widely recognized for its powerful antioxidant, anti-aging, and skin-brightening properties. However, despite its remarkable benefits, traditional Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) faces significant limitations in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations — it is highly unstable, easily oxidized, and poorly absorbed by the skin.
To overcome these challenges, scientists have developed more stable and effective Vitamin C derivatives, among which Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic Acid) stands out as one of the most advanced. This next-generation derivative combines excellent stability, high skin permeability, and strong bioavailability, allowing it to deliver the full benefits of Vitamin C without the drawbacks of oxidation or irritation.
Today, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid has become a star ingredient in modern skincare, offering multifunctional effects such as whitening, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-boosting properties. Beyond cosmetics, it also shows great potential in the food and pharmaceutical industries as a stable antioxidant and nutritional enhancer.
In this article, we’ll explore what Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is, how it works, its major benefits, applications, and advantages over traditional Vitamin C.
What is Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (CAS 86404-04-8)?
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, also known as 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, is a stable derivative of vitamin C. Unlike ordinary vitamin C, which is highly prone to oxidation and unstable under typical storage conditions, ethyl ascorbic acid has been chemically modified to improve both its stability and absorption. This modification gives it a unique balance of hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving) properties, making it more versatile and effective in various applications.
Because of these enhanced characteristics, ethyl ascorbic acid effectively overcomes the limitations of regular vitamin C, such as poor stability and difficulty in penetrating the skin barrier. It is widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceutical products for its potent antioxidant activity and skin-brightening effects, promoting collagen synthesis and protecting against environmental damage.
Chemical Identity
- Chemical name: 3-O-Ethyl-L-ascorbic acid
- Molecular formula: C₈H₁₂O₆
- Molecular weight: 204.18
- CAS number: 86404-04-8
- Appearance: White crystalline powder
- Stability: Stable to light, heat and oxygen
features and advantages
High stability: Solved the problem of the prototype vitamin C (ascorbic acid) being easily oxidized, discolored, and degraded. By introducing an ethyl group on the third carbon atom of vitamin C molecule structure, its tolerance to heat, light, and oxygen is greatly improved, enabling it to exist more stably in product formulations.
Double solubility (hydrophilic and oleophilic): This structural modification makes it both hydrophilic (water-soluble) and oleophilic (oil soluble), which allows it to better penetrate the stratum corneum of the skin (composed of lipids), improve bioavailability, and thus more effectively function.
Efficient activity: After entering the skin, EAC can be metabolized and converted into the biologically active prototype vitamin C. Its vitamin C content is high (theoretically about 86.3%), and it is considered one of the derivatives that is closest to the prototype vitamin C and has excellent effects.
How Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Works
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, known chemically as 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, enhances the stability of vitamin C by chemically modifying its molecular structure. Specifically, an ethyl group is introduced at the 3rd hydroxyl (-OH) site of the vitamin C molecule. This subtle but crucial change protects the molecule from oxidation and discoloration, which are common problems with regular vitamin C.
This modification improves its oxidation resistance by shielding the reactive site that normally causes vitamin C to degrade easily when exposed to air, light, or heat. As a result, ethyl ascorbic acid remains stable under neutral to mildly acidic conditions (pH 4.0–6.0), and is less prone to turning yellow, a sign of oxidation.
Moreover, the molecule’s altered structure gives ethyl ascorbic acid both hydrophilic (water-attracting) and lipophilic (oil-attracting) properties. This dual affinity allows it to dissolve well in water-based and some organic solvents, making it compatible with both aqueous and oil phases in formulations.
Once applied, enzymes in the body or on the skin surface can break down ethyl ascorbic acid, releasing the active vitamin C molecule. This enzymatic conversion ensures efficient delivery of vitamin C’s antioxidant benefits, such as promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting melanin formation, and protecting against environmental damage.
Key Benefits and Properties of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid(CAS 86404-04-8)
Whitening and Brightening Effects
Ethyl ascorbic acid inhibits tyrosinase activity, the enzyme essential for melanin synthesis, effectively reducing the production of dark pigments. It also directly acts on melanin intermediates like DHICA, preventing their oxidation and the formation of dark spots. This leads to lighter pigmentation, a more even and brighter skin tone, and diminished appearance of age spots and acne scars. Additionally, its ability to promote skin cell turnover aids in faster metabolism of melanin, enhancing skin clarity.
Strong Antioxidant Capacity
Ethyl ascorbic acid is a potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals generated by UV exposure and environmental stressors. It helps reduce oxidative stress on skin cells, protecting DNA and cellular structures from damage. This antioxidant activity delays signs of aging such as wrinkles and loss of elasticity, contributing to healthier, youthful skin.
Collagen Synthesis & Skin Barrier Repair
This compound penetrates into the dermis where it activates fibroblasts to boost collagen production, improving skin firmness and elasticity. Enhanced collagen synthesis reduces fine lines and wrinkles, helping skin maintain a smooth, plump appearance. Additionally, ethyl ascorbic acid supports skin barrier repair by mitigating damage caused by UV radiation and oxidative stress, restoring skin resilience.
Anti-inflammatory and Antibacterial Effects
Ethyl ascorbic acid suppresses inflammatory mediators, easing redness, swelling, and irritation often caused by UV exposure or acne. Its anti-inflammatory properties make it beneficial for sensitive skin, calming inflammations and supporting healing processes. This makes it a valuable ingredient in formulations designed for sun protection and acne treatment.
Exceptional Stability in Formulations
Unlike conventional vitamin C, ethyl ascorbic acid is highly stable under exposure to light, air, heat, and varying pH conditions, avoiding yellowing or degradation. It is compatible with other popular skincare ingredients such as niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, allowing for flexible and effective formulation. This stability ensures sustained antioxidant activity and whitening efficacy over time, making it ideal for commercial cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.
Applications of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid(CAS 86404-04-8)
Skincare and Cosmetics
Ethyl ascorbic acid (EAC/VC ethyl ether) is a star whitening and anti-aging active ingredient in modern high-end skincare formulations. Its exceptional stability and excellent dual solubility make it an ideal choice for a variety of cosmetic formulations. It is widely used in serums, whitening creams, masks, eye creams, and sunscreen and after-sun repair products.
The recommended dosage of EAC is typically between 0.5% and 3% to achieve significant whitening and antioxidant effects; high-concentration formulas can even reach 5% or higher. To achieve even greater efficacy, EAC is often combined with other whitening ingredients such as niacinamide and arbutin to synergistically enhance skin brightening and anti-inflammatory effects, providing consumers with a highly effective and stable whitening and anti-aging solution.
Food Industry
In addition to its application in cosmetics, ethyl ascorbic acid also has important application value in the food industry, mainly as a nutritional enhancer and a highly effective antioxidant preservative.
It can be used as a vitamin C nutrient enhancer and added to various foods to enhance the nutritional value of the product. More importantly, utilizing its high stability antioxidant properties, EAC can effectively inhibit oil oxidation in food, slow down food browning, and significantly extend the shelf life of products. It can also improve the color and flavor of food and maintain its freshness. Its application scope includes but is not limited to jams, jellies, sauces, baked products, and beverages that require prevention of oxidation and spoilage.
Pharmaceutical Field
In the pharmaceutical field, ethyl ascorbic acid is regarded as an excellent source of vitamin C and active pharmaceutical ingredient due to its high stability and high bioavailability. EAC can be used to manufacture nutritional supplements, such as oral tablets, capsules, or injections, to enhance the absorption and utilization of vitamin C in the human body, especially suitable for patients who need to supplement high-dose vitamin C or have vitamin C deficiency.
In addition, by utilizing its promotion of collagen synthesis and powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, EAC can also be used to promote the healing of skin and tissue injuries, such as wound repair. In clinical studies, EAC has also been explored for antioxidant adjuvant therapy to alleviate oxidative stress caused by certain diseases. Its excellent stability makes drug formulations easier to store and transport, ensuring the effectiveness of active ingredients.
Comparison — Ethyl Ascorbic Acid vs. Traditional Vitamin C
| Feature | Traditional Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) | Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-Ethyl-L-Ascorbic Acid) |
|---|---|---|
| Absorption | Deep skin penetration reaching dermis for collagen production | Good absorption mainly in the epidermis; slightly reduced penetration due to ethyl modification |
| Stability | Very unstable; oxidizes quickly when exposed to air, light, heat | Highly stable; resists oxidation, discoloration, and degradation |
| Antioxidant Capacity | Strong antioxidant; neutralizes free radicals effectively | Antioxidant but less potent than pure vitamin C in neutralizing free radicals |
| Skin Feel | Can cause irritation or redness, especially in sensitive skin | Gentler on skin, suitable for sensitive or easily irritated complexions |
| Formulation Compatibility | Limited due to instability; requires low pH and special formulation | Excellent compatibility with a wide range of ingredients including niacinamide and hyaluronic acid |
| Functionality | Powerful collagen booster, brightening, anti-aging | Brightening, antioxidant, moisturization, gentler anti-aging effects |
| Shelf Life | Short; product efficacy decreases rapidly | Longer shelf life; maintains potency over time |
Ethyl ascorbic acid is designed to overcome the major drawbacks of traditional vitamin C by enhancing stability and reducing irritation while still providing core benefits like skin brightening and antioxidation. While it may have slightly less potent antioxidant action than L-ascorbic acid, its ease of formulation and gentleness make it a popular choice in cosmetics. Traditional vitamin C remains the gold standard for deep dermal effects but requires careful formulation to maintain efficacy.
Recommended Dosage and Formulation Tips for Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Ethyl ascorbic acid is recommended for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 3%. This range balances efficacy and skin tolerance, ensuring noticeable whitening, antioxidant, and anti-aging effects without irritation.
The optimal pH range for formulations containing ethyl ascorbic acid is between 4.0 and 6.0, which aligns well with the natural pH of human skin and helps maintain the ingredient’s stability and activity.
Ethyl ascorbic acid exhibits excellent compatibility with other active ingredients commonly used in skincare, such as niacinamide and arbutin, enhancing whitening and anti-inflammatory benefits. It is also stable when combined with moisturizing agents like hyaluronic acid.
Basic Formulation Suggestions:
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Whitening Serum: 1–3% ethyl ascorbic acid combined with 2–5% niacinamide, 0.5–1% arbutin, and hydrating bases.
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Brightening Cream: 0.5–2% ethyl ascorbic acid with antioxidants, emollients, and skin barrier-supporting ingredients.
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Anti-Aging Mask: 1–3% ethyl ascorbic acid combined with peptides, collagen boosters, and soothing agents.
For formulation, it is advisable to add ethyl ascorbic acid below 40°C to preserve activity and store products in airtight, light-protective packaging to maximize shelf life. The ingredient’s dual hydrophilic and lipophilic nature ensures it disperses well in both water-based and oil-based formulas.
Where to Buy High-Quality Ethyl Ascorbic Acid(CAS 86404-04-8)
Runtai Chemical strictly controls the production process and provides high-purity and highly stable ethyl ascorbic acid products. Ensure that each batch of raw materials can stably exert their effects in your formula, achieving the best whitening and antioxidant effects.
We have mature production technology and optimized supply chain, which can provide highly competitive ex factory prices. This helps your business reduce procurement costs and increase the profit margin of end products.
Runtai Chemical specializes in the global export of wholesale Ethyl Ascorbic Acid. With our extensive logistics experience, we can ensure that raw materials are delivered quickly, safely, and in compliance with regulations around the world.
