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What are cosmetic moisturizers?
Cosmetic moisturizers are substances used to maintain and replenish moisture in the stratum corneum of the skin, prevent skin dryness and loss of elasticity, and make the skin smooth, soft, and elastic.
This type of substance has the ability to bind water in a lower humidity range. They control the exchange of moisture with the surrounding air to maintain the skin in a balanced state above normal water content, thereby reducing skin dryness. Moreover, moisturizers can also have a moisturizing effect on cosmetics themselves, helping to ensure the stability of the cosmetic system.
There are various types of moisturizers, which can be classified by chemical structure into fatty alcohols, fatty acids and their salts, fatty acid esters, allantoin, ceramides, peptides, etc; According to their sources, they can be divided into natural moisturizers (such as plant extracts, animal fats, etc.) and synthetic moisturizers.
Common moisturizers include glycerin, PCA-NA, Hyaluronic acid, ceramide, squalane, etc., which achieve moisturizing effects through different mechanisms of action, such as moisture absorption, water locking, and repairing skin barriers. Choosing moisturizers that are suitable for the skin type, combined with reasonable skincare habits, can help maintain the health of the skin.
How do moisturizers work？
1. Hygroscopic effect
Some moisturizers, such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, have hydrophilic groups. It can absorb moisture from the surrounding environment and retain it on the surface of the skin. In high humidity environments, they can quickly absorb moisture, keeping the skin moist; But in low humidity environments, they may absorb moisture from deep layers of the skin and need to be used in conjunction with other ingredients to avoid skin dehydration.
2. Water locking effect
Sealed moisturizers such as Vaseline and mineral oil. They form a closed film on the surface of the skin, preventing water from evaporating. These oily substances reduce transdermal water loss through physical barriers, especially suitable for dry skin, but may not be suitable for oily skin or may easily cause acne.
3. Protect the skin barrier
Ingredients such as ceramides and squalane can repair damaged skin barriers. Ceramides participate in intercellular lipid synthesis, enhancing the moisturizing ability of the skin; Squalane, similar to natural skin oils, can improve the structure of the stratum corneum and reduce water loss.
Types of cosmetic moisturizer
1. Humectants
Glycerol: It has a mature production process, a relatively low price, high cost-effectiveness, and is suitable for large-scale applications. It is a commonly used economical moisturizer in the cosmetics industry.
It can absorb moisture from the air, increase the moisture content of the skin’s stratum corneum, and reduce water loss. In different humidity environments, its moisture absorption ability is outstanding, especially in low humidity environments, where it can still maintain a good moisturizing effect.
The combination of glycerol with other moisturizing agents such as hyaluronic acid and ceramide can enhance the overall moisturizing effect and exert a synergistic effect.
Glycerol is a natural endogenous moisturizer with good tolerance to human skin and high safety. It is non-toxic and non-irritating, widely used in various skincare products, including infant care products and formulas suitable for sensitive skin.
Sodium L-pyroglutamate: Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, also known as Sodium PCA, PCA-NA. PCA-NA has a strong hygroscopic property. Its moisture absorption capacity is twice that of glycerol and six times that of sorbitol.
It can absorb a large amount of moisture from the air, effectively replenishing the moisture in the stratum corneum of the skin and maintaining skin hydration. It can still maintain skin moisture in low-humidity environments, avoiding moisture loss caused by dry environments, and providing long-lasting and stable moisturizing effects.
As a natural component of the stratum corneum of the skin, it is non-irritating to the skin and eyes, does not clog pores, is suitable for sensitive skin, and has high safety.
When used in combination with other moisturizing agents such as hyaluronic acid, PCA-NA has a synergistic effect, which can enhance the overall moisturizing effect and improve the moisturizing performance of the product.
PCA-NA can quickly penetrate into the stratum corneum, regulate the water balance of the stratum corneum, strengthen the skin barrier function, and improve skin dryness, roughness, and other problems. In addition to moisturizing, it also has skin whitening, keratin softening, and other effects, which have a certain auxiliary improvement effect on skin problems such as psoriasis.
Hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic acid can absorb more than 1000 times its weight of water and effectively lock in moisture to prevent dry skin. Its moisturizing performance is not affected by environmental humidity, and it can still maintain efficient moisturizing in low-humidity environments.
Hyaluronic acid with different molecular weights has different effects. High molecular weight can form a protective film on the surface of the skin, reducing water evaporation and enhancing water retention ability. Medium molecular weight can penetrate the stratum corneum and replenish deep skin moisture. Small molecular weight substances can penetrate deep into the dermis layer, promote collagen synthesis, and enhance skin elasticity and firmness.
Hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the human body, with an extremely low sensitization rate and high safety when used, making it suitable for sensitive skin. It has good biocompatibility, can be naturally metabolized by the human body, and has no residual risk. And promote skin cell metabolism, accelerate wound healing, and repair damaged skin barriers. At the same time, it combines with collagen to enhance skin elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and delay skin aging.
It can form a uniform protective film on the surface of the skin, reducing UV damage while providing lubrication, making the skin smooth and delicate, and improving skin texture. In addition to skincare, hyaluronic acid is widely used in fields such as medical beauty filling, ophthalmology, and arthritis treatment, with multiple functions including moisturizing, filling, and repairing.
2. Occlusives
Lanolin: Related research has shown that lanolin can reduce skin moisture loss by 20% to 30%. Lanolin has an extremely strong moisturizing ability. It can not only form a closed oil film to prevent water evaporation, but also penetrate the stratum corneum of the skin, forming water-in-oil (W/O) droplets in the intercellular space, delaying deep water loss and achieving long-lasting moisturizing
The composition of lanolin is similar to human sebum, which can fuse with the lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin, reduce irritation, supplement the lipid bilayer of the skin, enhance the skin barrier, reduce the invasion of external stimuli, promote superficial wound healing, and prevent skin dryness and cracking. It has moisturizing, nourishing, anti-inflammatory and other effects, especially suitable for extremely dry skin.
As a pure natural ingredient without chemical additives, it is environmentally friendly and suitable for people who pursue natural skincare. Some people may be allergic to lanolin, and it is recommended to undergo a skin test before use.
3. Emollients
Squalane: The molecular structure of squalane is highly similar to squalene in human skin, which can quickly penetrate the skin, fuse with the sebum membrane, form a natural protective film, reduce water loss, and is especially suitable for dry and sensitive skin.
As a saturated hydrocarbon oil, squalane has stable chemical properties. It is not easily oxidized or deteriorated, does not require preservatives, has high safety, and can be stored for a long time. It is non-irritating to the skin, has an extremely low sensitization rate, and is suitable for sensitive populations such as pregnant women and infants, with reliable safety.
Squalane can work synergistically with other skincare ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramide to enhance moisturizing and repairing effects. In addition, modern squalane is often obtained through plant extraction or biosynthetic technology, which avoids shark hunting and is in line with environmental protection principles.
How to choose moisturizers for different skin types
Oily skin
Texture selection: We can give priority to oil-free formulas, refreshing water, lotion, gel, and avoid using too greasy products to avoid increasing the burden on the skin.
Ingredient selection: You can choose hydrophilic moisturizers, such as glycerin and PCA-NA. These ingredients can absorb moisture from the air, replenish moisture to the skin, and not cause excessive oiliness to the skin. Try to choose less tightly sealed oil components, such as Vaseline or mineral oil, to reduce the greasy feeling after use.
Dry skin
Texture selection: It is recommended to choose creams containing oils such as Vaseline and lanolin that have good encapsulation effects. These products can form a protective film on the skin surface, effectively locking in moisture and preventing moisture loss.
Ingredient selection: In addition to oil components, moisturizers containing hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and other ingredients can also be chosen. Hyaluronic acid has strong moisturizing ability and can form a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss; Ceramide is an important component of the skin barrier, which can repair and strengthen the skin barrier function, and improve the skin’s moisturizing ability
Sensitive Skin
Texture Selection: Choose a mild, non-irritating moisturizer. Avoid products containing irritating ingredients like alcohol, fragrances, and pigments, as these may cause skin allergies or irritation.
Ingredient selection: It is advisable to choose effective skincare products that have been tested and clinically proven to have good safety. In terms of ingredients, ceramides, squalene, hyaluronic acid, prickly fruit oil, trehalose, etc. can be selected. They can not only moisturize but also repair the skin barrier.
