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Squalane is known as the “second layer of skin” in the human body because it is similar to the important component of sebum, squalene, and easily integrates into the skin, forming a protective film on the surface of the skin and acting as a barrier. Due to its moisturizing, skin friendly, and high stability properties, it can fuse with our own sebum membrane, forming a natural “protective layer” on the surface of the skin, effectively preventing external stimuli, making it a natural moisturizer for the skin.
Squalane is well-known in the skincare industry and leads the innovative trend in the skincare field. According to Grand View Research (2023), the sector is projected to reach $241 million by 2028, with bio-fermented squalane accounting for 62% of this growth. As a natural ingredient highly compatible with human sebum, it is rapidly penetrating from high-end skincare ingredients to the mass consumer market. This article can help us understand its history, benefits, and future trends.
The development history of squalane
1. Animal origin
A Japanese chemist first discovered squalene in 1906 in shark liver oil. Squalane is its hydrogenated derivative and is widely used in the cosmetics industry due to its many benefits for the skin.
Due to the high content of squalene in deep-sea shark liver, ranging from 40% to 80%, commercial fishing has become a simple and economical source. However, excessive reliance on this method of obtaining squalene can cause serious environmental problems. Producing 1 ton of squalene requires about 3000 sharks, and millions of sharks are hunted and killed yearly, leading to the extinction of multiple deep-sea shark species.
In 2006, the European Union banned deep-sea shark fishing within its borders, prompting cosmetics giants such as L’Oreal and Unilever to gradually adopt plant-based alternatives since 2008.
2. Plant origin
In 1935, Thorbjarnarson and Drummond discovered squalene in olive oil, laying the foundation for the development of plant-based squalene. Subsequently, it was discovered that vegetable oils such as amaranth seed oil, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, rice bran oil, and cottonseed oil also contained squalene. These plant-based squalenes became the main source of “second-generation squalene.”
Although squalene, the precursor of squalane, is widely distributed in animals and plants, it has been affected by the improvement of animal protection regulations and the increasing awareness of ecological balance protection among people. The traditional method of directly extracting squalene from plants is no longer in line with modern environmental protection concepts. Therefore, more sustainable and efficient synthesis technology of squalane has become an urgent need for industry development.
3. Chemical synthesis
Since the 1970s, it has been discovered that squalene can be obtained through chemical synthesis from different compounds such as isoprene and dehydrogenated tertiary alcohols. However, the production method of chemical synthesis is characterized by high energy consumption and high pollution. It also does not meet the requirements of environmental protection and sustainable development.
4. Sugarcane extraction
In 2003, Amyris, the parent company of BIOSSANCE, made a significant breakthrough in synthetic biology technology at Berkeley Lab in the United States. Using sugarcane extract to cultivate yeast, it successfully synthesized farnesene to produce squalane.
Production process of squalane
1. Extraction from Shark Liver Oil
Firstly, shark liver is processed to extract crude oil (usually using cold pressing or low-temperature treatment). Crude oil not only contains squalene, but also fatty acids, alkyl glycerols, and other lipids. In order to separate squalene, molecular distillation is usually used – heating the oil under vacuum to separate squalene. Subsequently, squalene needs further purification (such as activated carbon filtration) to remove any fishy odor or pollutants. After obtaining squalene, the final step is catalytic hydrogenation to form squalane.
This reaction is exothermic and relatively simple. According to reports, under suitable catalyst conditions, the yield of hydrogenation of squalene to squalane can reach almost 100%. The final obtained squalane is a transparent and odorless oil.
Because the cost to marine ecology is enormous – producing one ton of squalene requires killing thousands of sharks, this source has been largely eliminated except in rare cases.
2. Plant derived squalane
Taking olive oil as an example, squalene is not directly present in the main oil, but rather in the by-products produced during the refining process – olive fatty acid distillate (OFAD).
The squalene content of these distillates is about 10%-30%. The extraction methods include solvent extraction and winterization. Modern efficient methods include supercritical CO ₂ extraction, which can extract squalene from complex mixtures without the need for high temperatures. After obtaining the original plant squalene, it is purified by distillation or chromatography, and the purity usually exceeds 90%. Finally, these plant squalene, like shark squalene, are converted to squalane through hydrogenation.
3. Chemical synthesis
Kuraray Company developed a method for synthesizing squalane from isoprene units sourced from petroleum in the 1970s. This method involves oligomerizing isoprene (or similar terpenes) to form C30 hydrocarbon molecules and subjecting them to hydrogenation treatment. Although this method is relatively simple in chemistry, it has historically been costly, partly due to the high cost of raw materials and multi-step synthesis processes, which are much higher than the price of naturally extracted squalene.
4. Biological fermentation
In 2003, Amyris successfully obtained squalane through synthetic biology techniques at Berkeley Lab in the United States. The production process is:Sugarcane is fermented with genetically modified yeast to produce Famesene, which is then catalyzed to obtain lso-squalene. Squalane is then hydrogenated to obtain squalene.
The new production process of producing squalene in large quantities through microbial fermentation has become a research direction for the production of squalene. Synthetic biology techniques can significantly increase the yield and production efficiency of yeast cells, while shortening the production cycle and reducing costs. Reducing reliance on traditional chemical synthesis and animal and plant extraction has truly achieved sustainable development.
Squalane Skin Benefits: Why It’s a Skincare Staple
Squalane has emerged as a superstar in skincare, praised for its lightweight texture and compatibility with all skin types. As consumers prioritize clean, effective, and eco-conscious beauty solutions, squalane’s popularity continues to soar. Its key benefits include:
- Moisturizing and Nourishing: The natural sebum secreted by the skin contains about 12% squalene, which is one of the components of the skin’s sebum membrane. The squalane obtained after hydrogenation has good skin affinity and can quickly dissolve with the oil in the skin, forming a thin and breathable protective film on the skin surface to maintain moisture balance and prevent skin moisture loss. Its strong permeability enables the skin to quickly reach water-oil balance.
- Promote the absorption of active ingredients: Squalane itself is a safe and effective animal oil, with a strong water oil fusion effect, so it has good penetration into the skin and a high moisturizing effect. As a penetration enhancer, it can help other active ingredients, such as vitamins and antioxidants, penetrate the skin and enhance their effectiveness. Used in hair care products, it can also increase brightness and combing sensation.
- Repairing cells and anti-inflammatory effects: Squalane can open the pores of the skin, promote microcirculation between blood vessels, thereby enhancing cell metabolism and achieving the effect of repairing damaged cells. It also has anti-inflammatory effects, can regulate immune responses, and alleviate discomfort symptoms such as skin redness, swelling, and itching.
- Antioxidant and whitening effects: Squalane can also inhibit lipid peroxidation in the skin, effectively penetrate the skin, and promote the proliferation of skin basal cells. It has significant effects on delaying skin aging and improving melasma. It can also regulate epidermal pigment metabolism, reduce tyrosinase activity, and have a certain whitening effect.
- Stable formula: Due to its stable chemical properties, squalane is suitable for combination with photosensitive or easily degradable ingredients to prolong product activity.
Is Squalane Comedogenic? Is Squalane Good for Acne?
Squalane is an ingredient extracted from shark liver, which has high moisturizing and antioxidant properties and is widely used in skincare products. It is safe for the skin itself and does not cause acne.
It has antioxidant and moisturizing properties, which can promote skin metabolism and repair damaged skin. It can inhibit sebum peroxidation, reduce the production of inflammatory factors, thereby helping to lower the inflammatory response, which may have a positive effect on the treatment of acne.
Development Trends of Squalane Market
With the increasing attention of consumers to health and beauty, the demand for skincare and cosmetics containing squalane is also growing year by year. In addition, many countries and regions are actively promoting green chemicals and sustainable development, providing strong support for environmentally friendly, safe, and efficient production technologies.
- Technological innovation: Currently, due to limited production of animal squalane, low squalane content in plants, difficult extraction, high squalane prices, and an imbalance between supply and demand in the market, biological fermentation is the main research direction.
- Diversified applications: The application fields of squalane are constantly expanding. In addition to the growing cosmetics and personal care industries, the applications in the pharmaceutical and food industries will also gradually increase.
- Market demand: With the development of global living standards, consumers’ attention to health and beauty has increased. The demand for skincare and cosmetics containing squalane in some emerging markets is also increasing year by year. Especially in the Asian market, due to strong consumer demand for moisturizing and anti-aging products, the market potential for squalane is enormous.
Where can you get squalane?
Runtai Chemical is a professional and reliable Chinese manufacturer of squalane with higher purity and lower price for 15 years. If you are interested in our product, feel free to contact us for free samples!
