Squalane is known as the “second layer of skin” in the human body because it is similar to the important component of sebum, squalene, and easily integrates into the skin, forming a protective film on the surface of the skin and acting as a barrier. Due to its moisturizing, skin-friendly, and high stability properties, it can fuse with our own sebum membrane, forming a natural “protective layer” on the surface of the skin, effectively preventing external stimuli, making it a natural moisturizer for the skin.
Squalane is well-known in the skincare industry and leads the innovative trend in the skincare field. According to Grand View Research (2023), the sector is projected to reach $241 million by 2028, with bio-fermented squalane accounting for 62% of this growth. As a natural ingredient highly compatible with human sebum, it is rapidly penetrating from high-end skincare ingredients to the mass consumer market. This article can help us understand its history, benefits, and future trends.
What Makes Squalane Special?
Squalane is structurally very similar to squalene, a natural lipid found abundantly in human sebum, where squalene accounts for about 12% of the skin’s oil content. However, squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene, giving it a fully saturated chemical structure. This hydrogenation significantly enhances squalane’s stability, making it much less prone to oxidation compared to squalene, which contains multiple double bonds that can deteriorate when exposed to air or light.
Due to its stability and similarity to human sebum, squalane acts as a natural skin barrier, often referred to as the “second skin.” It forms a protective, moisturizing layer that locks in hydration without clogging pores, making it highly compatible and beneficial for all skin types. This blend of chemical stability and skin affinity is why squalane is so highly valued in skincare, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical applications.
Squalane vs Squalene
| Feature | Squalene | Squalane |
|---|---|---|
| Saturation | Unsaturated | Saturated (hydrogenated) |
| Stability | Prone to oxidation | Highly stable |
| Shelf Life | Shorter | Longer (2+ years) |
| Texture | Slightly heavier | Lightweight |
| Applications | Limited due to instability | Wide cosmetic applications |
Development History of Squalane
Squalane has a long and evolving history marked by shifts in sourcing methods driven by environmental, economic, and technological factors.
Animal Origin
Originally, squalane was primarily extracted from the liver oil of deep-sea sharks, a practice that provided abundant squalene but caused significant environmental concerns. Harvesting from sharks raises sustainability and ethical issues due to the threat it poses to shark populations and marine ecosystems, leading to the gradual phasing out of this method.
Plant-Derived Squalane
To address these issues, plant-based sources such as olive oil, amaranth seed oil, and soybean oil became prominent. These are often byproducts of oil production, from which squalene is extracted and then hydrogenated to squalane. Plant-derived squalane offered a more sustainable alternative, but faced challenges related to variable supply and extraction efficiency.
Chemical Synthesis
Chemical synthesis methods using petrochemical raw materials were developed to produce squalane. While this approach ensured a consistent supply, it generally involved higher costs and environmental drawbacks, making it less favored in the push for greener products.
Bio-Fermentation
The most promising recent innovation is bio-fermentation, where sugarcane sugars are fermented using genetically engineered yeast to produce squalene precursors. This is followed by chemical hydrogenation to yield squalane. This method is sustainable, cost-effective, and scalable, positioning it as the future trend for squalane production and fulfilling the rising demand for bio-based, eco-friendly ingredients.
Production Process of Squalane
The production of squalane involves several diverse methods, each with its unique raw materials, processing steps, and environmental impacts.
Shark Liver Oil Extraction
Traditionally, squalane was produced by extracting squalene from shark liver oil. The process involves purification of the extracted squalene followed by hydrogenation to convert it into stable squalane. Although effective, this method is costly and has serious environmental consequences due to the depletion of shark populations and marine ecosystems.
Plant-Derived Extraction
Another common method uses plant byproducts such as olive oil, amaranth seed oil, and soybean oil. Squalene is extracted and purified from these oils, then hydrogenated into squalane. This approach yields high-purity squalane with a more sustainable footprint compared to shark-derived sources, but it can be limited by crop seasonality and extraction efficiency.
Chemical Synthesis
Chemical synthesis of squalane from petrochemical feedstocks is possible but involves complex processes with high environmental burdens, making it less desirable in today’s eco-conscious market.
Bio-Fermentation
The most innovative and sustainable method is bio-fermentation, where sugarcane sugars are fermented using genetically engineered yeast to produce squalene precursors. This bio-based squalene is then hydrogenated to form squalane. This method offers scalability, cost efficiency, and reduced environmental impact and has already been commercialized, representing the future trend in squalane production.
Is Squalane Comedogenic? Is Squalane Good for Acne?
Squalane is generally considered non-comedogenic, meaning it does not clog pores and is safe for acne-prone skin. Its saturated chemical structure makes it stable and less likely to oxidize into irritating compounds that can trigger acne, unlike its unsaturated counterpart squalene. Squalane also possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce sebum oxidation and inflammation, both key factors in acne development. These benefits make squalane suitable and beneficial for oily, sensitive, and acne-prone skin types by hydrating without causing breakouts and helping regulate oil production. However, as with all skincare ingredients, individual reactions can vary, and high-purity, plant-derived squalane (e.g., sugarcane) is often recommended to minimize impurities that might cause irritation or acne in sensitive users.
Squalane Skin Benefits: Why It’s a Skincare Staple
Squalane has emerged as a superstar in skincare, praised for its lightweight texture and compatibility with all skin types. As consumers prioritize clean, effective, and eco-conscious beauty solutions, squalane’s popularity continues to soar. Its key benefits include:
- Moisturizing and Nourishing: The natural sebum secreted by the skin contains about 12% squalene, which is one of the components of the skin’s sebum membrane. The squalane obtained after hydrogenation has good skin affinity and can quickly dissolve with the oil in the skin, forming a thin and breathable protective film on the skin surface to maintain moisture balance and prevent skin moisture loss. Its strong permeability enables the skin to quickly reach water-oil balance.
- Promote the absorption of active ingredients: Squalane itself is a safe and effective animal oil, with a strong water oil fusion effect, so it has good penetration into the skin and a high moisturizing effect. As a penetration enhancer, it can help other active ingredients, such as vitamins and antioxidants, penetrate the skin and enhance their effectiveness. Used in hair care products, it can also increase brightness and combing sensation.
- Repairing cells and anti-inflammatory effects: Squalane can open the pores of the skin, promote microcirculation between blood vessels, thereby enhancing cell metabolism and achieving the effect of repairing damaged cells. It also has anti-inflammatory effects, can regulate immune responses, and alleviate discomfort symptoms such as skin redness, swelling, and itching.
- Antioxidant and whitening effects: Squalane can also inhibit lipid peroxidation in the skin, effectively penetrate the skin, and promote the proliferation of skin basal cells. It has significant effects on delaying skin aging and improving melasma. It can also regulate epidermal pigment metabolism, reduce tyrosinase activity, and have a certain whitening effect.
- Stable formula: Due to its stable chemical properties, squalane is suitable for combination with photosensitive or easily degradable ingredients to prolong product activity.
Market Analysis of Squalane
The global squalane market is expected to continue its strong growth, reaching $241 million by 2028. This growth is driven by the market’s demand for sustainable, high-purity raw materials. Bio-fermented squalane, with its stable supply, manageable costs, and environmentally friendly properties, is rapidly replacing traditional sources and becoming the dominant sourcing trend in the market.
Squalane’s applications have expanded beyond traditional skincare products into a broader market. While skincare products like creams and serums still generate the largest demand, with their moisturizing, repairing, and anti-aging properties as their core selling points, Squalane’s potential as a functional matrix is being utilized in pharmaceuticals (as a drug carrier) and high-end cosmetics, demonstrating its strong cross-sector application potential and broadening the overall market demand base.
Demand for squalane has grown most strongly in Asia (particularly China, Japan, and South Korea), driven by consumers’ strong preference for effective moisturizing and a refreshing skin feel. Meanwhile, European and American markets place high demands on the transparency and sustainability of squalane’s raw material sources, further solidifying the market position of environmentally friendly bio-fermented squalane.
Future Development Trends of Squalane
The future squalane market will be dominated by biotechnology. With the maturity of fermentation technology, bio-fermented squalane is becoming mainstream. This technology utilizes renewable plant sugars for microbial synthesis, enabling not only a high-yield, low-cost, large-scale, and stable supply, but also the production of extremely pure raw materials. Of particular note, the market for pharmaceutical-grade (GMP-grade) squalane, used as a vaccine adjuvant and drug carrier, is expected to experience the fastest compound annual growth rate.
Increasingly stringent global environmental regulations and rising consumer demand for clean beauty products are accelerating the market’s phaseout of unsustainably sourced squalane. Both traditional shark liver oil and climate-sensitive plant-based extracts face supply instability and ethical risks. Consequently, sustainable squalane has become a sourcing imperative. Fermented squalane, with its low carbon footprint and transparency, perfectly aligns with global brands’ commitment to clean label and sustainable sourcing.
Squalane’s applications continue to expand. Beyond its core skincare sector, its value in the pharmaceutical field is becoming increasingly prominent. As a key ingredient in vaccine adjuvants (boosting immune responses) and innovative drug delivery systems (such as lipid nanocarriers), squalane’s demand and value have significantly increased. Simultaneously, it is also beginning to penetrate the functional food and nutritional supplement sectors, leveraging its antioxidant and cytoprotective properties to open up new market growth opportunities.
Global market demand holds enormous potential, particularly in emerging markets. Demand for squalane is growing most strongly in Asia, particularly in China, Japan, and South Korea. This trend is driven by consumers in these markets’ continued demand for highly effective moisturizing, anti-aging, and skin barrier repair products. For suppliers and buyers, focusing on the Asian market’s demand for high-purity, light-smelling squalane is key to capitalizing on this market opportunity.
Conclusion
Squalane is a natural, non-comedogenic skincare ingredient that hydrates, protects, and supports healthy skin. Sustainable bio-fermented squalane ensures high purity and eco-friendly sourcing, making it ideal for modern beauty and pharmaceutical applications. Its versatility and safety make squalane a must-have ingredient in skincare, anti-aging, and wellness products worldwide.
